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aqal (hats) A rolled band of decorative material used to secure the traditional Arab head-dress. Source: Classic Millinery Techniques bandeau (hats) Decorative head band, popular during the 1920's. bandeau (hats) Small leaf or drop shape head-dress for women, to accompany elegant attire. Source: CMC baseball cap (hats) Cloth cap with wide brim at the front. Originally a 5-panel cap, worn by baseball players with the team monogram on the front panel. Source: CMC basher (hats) A straw hat. bat or batt (felting) Oval or triangular cushion of layered fibers, joined to make hoods. Source: Pufpaff beaver hat (hats) Hat made of beaver fur felt. Source: HBC Ben Hogan (hats) English driving cap. beret (hats) Cap of felt, felted jersey or fabric with soft, wide, circular crown. With or without a headband. best stuff (components) 19th century term for rabbit fur, including the backs and the best parts of the sides mixed together. Source: Pufpaff bicorne (hats) Men's hat of the late 18th and early 19th century: wide brims were folded up to form two points. Signature hat of Napoleon. Source: CMC bird cage (hats) A small hat with stiffened veiling surrounding the wearer's face. Source: Classic Millinery Techniques biretta (hats) Square cap worn by clergy. block (techniques) A rigid form used to shape a hat. Hat blocks were originally made only of wood or stiffened buckram. Today aluminum forms are often used. blocking (techniques) Shaping hat material on a rigid form, traditionally of wood. Modern forms are also made of aluminum. boater (hats) Oval, flat-topped hat with rigid flat brim. Typically, made of straw braid. Also called a sailor or a skimmer. Source: CMC bonnet (hats) Women's or girl's head-dress, with deep brim and ribbons to tie under the chin. bonnet (hats) Men's or boy's brimless head-dress. bonnet rouge (hats) Red cap worn during the French Revolution as a symbol of liberty. bowing (felting) Mechanical separation and layering of wool or fur fibers. Source: Pufpaff bowler (hats) Oval hat with round, rigid crown and modeled brim. Also known as a derby, because the style was made popular by the Earl of Derby in 19th century England. Source: CMC breton or bretonne (hats) Women's hat with ample round crown and brim turned-up all around. bridal veil (hats) White or ivory veil worn during wedding ceremony. Source: CMC brim (hats) Projecting edge of a hat. brush hat (hats) 19th century term for felt hats with nap brushed up during planking. Source: Pufpaff bucket hat (hats) Fabric hat with a flat-topped, slightly conical crown and sloping brim. buckram (components) Stiff netting used to make hats. May be blocked or sewn. Once used by milliners to make blocks for limited use. bumper brim (hats) A tubular brim. Source: Classic Millinery Techniques calotte (hats) A close-fitting skull cap. Source: Classic Millinery Techniques Canadian Mounties stetson (hats) Official head-dress of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police. Source: CMC canotier (hats) Boater. cap (hats) A hat without a brim, or a small brim at the front. capeline (components) Roughly shaped crown and brim of felt or straw, to be blocked to form a hat. carroting (felting) Preliminary treatment of wool or fur with acids, to curl the hairs. Produces a reddish-yellow color which is the origin of the name. Source: Pufpaff cartwheel (hats) A hat with a wide straight brim and a low crown, reminiscent of hats worn by peasants in southern France. Source: Classic Millinery Techniques cassimere hat (hats) Felt hats with a very smooth surface produced by pouncing. Source: Pufpaff catherinette (history) French term for young women who celebrate St. Catherine on their 25th birthday. catherinette (history) Old French term for women working in the hat industry. caul (hats) Historical term for a close-fitting indoor head-dress, or the plain back part of the same. cavalier hat (hats) A wide-brimmed, plumed hat worn by cavaliers in the 17th century: the right side of the brim was pinned up to the crown so that the wearer's sword arm could move freely above the shoulder. Source: Classic Millinery Techniques chapka (hats) Cap of fur with flaps that can be turned down to cover ears and neck or fastened to the side of the flat-topped crown. Charles VII (history) King of France 1422-1461. Aided by Joan of Arc. Wore a hat worthy of mention in the historical accounts of his triumphant entry into Rouen. chef's hat (hats) White, starched bonnet worn by chefs. The tall crown should have 100 pleats. Source: CMC cloche (hats) Women's hat of the 1920's. Close-fitting round crown, with no brim or a small flare at the brim edge. Source: CMC cloche (hats) Women's hat with round crown and modeled brim. Current usage. cloche (components) Hood. coalman hat (hats) A short visor cap with a protective flap at the back, derived from a hat worn by English coal deliverers to protect their backs from dust. Source: Classic Millinery Techniques cockade (components) Ornamental rosette of ribbon or cloth, worn on a hat as a badge of office or as a decoration. cocked hat (hats) Bicorne or tricorne. cocktail hat (hats) A small, often frivolous, hat for women, usually worn forward on the head. cod-wool (components) 19th century term for wool from stillborn and very young lambs. Source: Pufpaff coif (hats) Head-cover worn by nuns as part of their habit, often with long veils. Source: CMC coif (hats) Close-fitting cap of white linen, tied with strings under the chin. Worn at times by both men and women, often under other head coverings, from the 12th to the 17th centuries. coke (hats) Bowler. conch hat (hats) A wide-brimmed palm straw hat of the Caribbean. Source: Classic Millinery Techniques cone (components) Hood. coolie hat (hats) A conical straw hat, similar to the style worn by laborers in the Far East. Source: Classic Millinery Techniques coptain (hats) A hat with a high tapered crown and narrow straight brim, believed to have originated in Spain in the 16th century. Later worn by the Puritans, and still known by their name. Source: The Hat Book cordie (hats) 19th century term for plain wool felt hats. Source: Pufpaff coronet (hats) Small crown worn by members of nobility as a symbol of rank. Source: CMC cover (hats) 19th century term for cordies with applied cod-wool and fur nap on the crown, upper and under sides of the brim. Source: Pufpaff cowboy hat (hats) Hat with high crown and wide brim, originally worn by cow hands. Usually of felt or leather. Source: CMC crown (hats) Head-dress usually of gold, worn as a symbol of sovereignty by monarchs. crown (hats) Top part of a hat. crush hat (hats) Collapsible top hat. Daché (history) See Lilly Daché. deer stalker (hats) A hunting cap with visors at the front and back, and ear-flaps that can be tied up over the crown. Also known as a Sherlock Holmes hat. Source: Classic Millinery Techniques derby (hats) Bowler. diadem (hats) Head-dress or head-band, worn as a symbol of sovereignty. doll hat (hats) A very small hat in any style, usually worn forward on the head. dorsay (hats) Word of French origin, referring to brim: sharp vertical fold all around the edge. dry box (techniques) Oven to dry hats on blocks. Source: Hats in Time Easter bonnet (hats) Women's hat: a new spring style to be worn at Easter. Source: CMC English driving cap (hats) Low-profile cap, originally only for men, with small brim at the front. Crown may be tailored with side panels, or gored. esparterie (components) Willow. feather bonnet (hats) Military head-dress of Scottish regiments, made of ostrich plumes mounted on a wire frame. Source: CMC feather head-dress (hats) Ceremonial and symbolic head-cover worn by chiefs of North American Indian tribes. Source: CMC fedora (hats) Felt hat with a lengthwise crease in the crown, and a medium brim. felt (components) Cloth made from wool, fur or hair, compacted by rolling and pressing, in the presence of heat and moisture. Source: Pufpaff fez (hats) Conical, flat-topped cap (tarboosh) of red felt, once made only in the city of Fez, Marocco. Men's head-cover. fillet (hats) Ribbon or narrow headband worn to confine hair. fish tail (components) Ribbon with a decorative v-shape cut at the end. Source: Classic Millinery Techniques five-point cap (hats) English driving cap. flamand (components) Fur felt hood or capeline with long nap. forage cap (hats) Military cap with a small brim, also typical for police uniforms. Source: CMC fulling (felting) Tumbling and pounding of cloth in hot water to induce felting. fur felt (components) Any hood or capeline of felt made from fur fibers. Gainsborough (hats) A wide-brimmed, plumed hat with the brim turned up on one side. Named for the 19th century English painter who often portrayed this style in his works Source: Classic Millinery Techniques Garbo hat (hats) Slouch hat. garland (hats) A wreath of flowers (artificial in millinery), worn as a decorative head-dress. gatsby (hats) English driving cap. gaucho hat (hats) A black felt hat with a wide flat brim and shallow flat-topped crown. gibus (hats) Collapsible top hat. glengarry (hats) A Scottish cap with pointed front, usually a pair of trailing ribbons at the back. Source: CMC gossamer hat (hats) Lightweight muslin hats sized with shellac, used as bodies for silk plush hats. Source: Pufpaff hat (hats) Item of dress worn on the head, from a word of Saxon origin meaning hood. Hat Act (history) A British law of 1732 restricting manufacture of hats in the colonies, to protect and favor the industry in England. headache band (hats) A 1920's term for decorative head bands. helmet (hats) Military head-dress. Source: CMC helmet (hats) Protective head-cover: for soldiers, aviators, motor-cyclists, miners, bee-keepers, fencers, etc. hennin (hats) A high conical hat with a veil attached at the top, worn by women during the 15th century. Source: Classic Millinery Techniques hijab (hats) Head-cover worn by Islamic women, often accompanied by the niqab (face veil). Source: CMC homburg (hats) Men's felt hat with a soft lengthwise crease in the crown, and a narrow slightly rolled brim. Made popular in the 1890's by Edward prince of Wales (later Edward VII), who borrowed the idea from the hat of local militiamen in Bad Homburg, Germany. hood (components) Cone of felt for making hats. horsehair (components) A wide band or fabric, once woven of real horsehair, now made of synthetic fiber. Source: Classic Millinery Techniques Hudson's Bay Company (history) Chartered in 1670 with the original intent of discovering the North West Passage, the HBC flourished with the fur trade and significantly contributed to the economic development of Canada. Source: HBC Ivy cap (hats) English driving cap. jockey cap (hats) Cloth cap with close-fitting 6-panel crown and wide brim at the front. Juliet (hats) A small, brimless, round cap of wide mesh, usually decorated with jewels. The style dates back to the Renaissance. Source: Classic Millinery Techniques jute (components) Cone or capeline made of jute fibre. Source: Hats UK kepi (hats) Typical cap of the French Foreign Legion uniform. Flat-topped oval crown, with a brim at the front. Source: Image kippah (hats) Skull-cap worn by Jewish men. Also known as yarmulke. Source: CMC laize (components) French term used for cloth of straw or synthetic straw. leuring lathe (techniques) Turntable with a block to support a felt hat. The hat is placed on the block and, as it turns, it is then polished or "leured" with a plush or velvetine pad, to impart a shine to the felt fibers, particularly on the crown. liberty cap (hats) Phrygian cap. Lilly Daché (history) A French-born milliner whose name and work in New York became synonymous with creativity and fashion flair in millinery. (1904 - 1989). Mad Hatter (history) Famous character of Lewis Carroll's "Alice in Wonderland". Source: CMC milliner (techniques) Artisan who makes and sells hats. Source: Williamsburg millinery (components) Hats and supplies for making hats. millinery (techniques) The craft of making hats. mitre (hats) Head-cover worn by bishops, characterized by two peaks. Source: CMC mortarboard (hats) Flat, square head-cover worn by professors and students for solemn academic occasions. Source: CMC mourning bonnet (hats) Black bonnet worn by widows during the 19th century. Source: CMC mulling (techniques) Dampening felt or straw with a fine mist or steam, before blocking. Source: Hats in Time mushroom hat (hats) A hat with a mushroom-like, downward curved brim. Known as a Tiffany in Italy, from the hat worn by Audrey Hepburn in the film "Breakfast at Tiffany's". nap (hats) 19th century term for cordies with applied cod-wool or camel hair nap on the crown, upper and under sides of the brim. Source: Pufpaff nap (components) Short fibers extending above the surface of cloth, fabric or felt, creating a soft, downy effect such as on velvet. newsboy (hats) Large, soft, 8-panel fabric cap with visor. night cap (hats) Men's cap worn informally indoors from the 16th to the 19th century. The cap had a deep crown made of four segments, with the edge turned up to form a close brim. Source: The Hat Book niqab (hats) Face veil worn by Islamic women, together with the hijab (head-cover). Source: CMC pakul (hats) Felted wool cap from Afghanistan with a flat top and rolled brim. panama (components) Straw cloche made primarily in Ecuador, as well as Peru and Colombia. The straw is produced from the leaves of the "Carludovica palmata" palm plant. panama hat (hats) Straw hat made with panama cloche. paper panama (components) Cone or capeline made of Japanese Toyo paper, woven to imitate natural Panama. Source: Hats UK parasisal (components) A two over two weave of sisal fiber used to make cones and capelines. Available in 5 grades, depending on the fineness of the fiber, it is lightweight, resilient and takes dye well. Source: Hats UK pastorella (hats) Italian term meaning shepherdess, for women's hat with round crown and wide, drooping brim. Usually of straw. peak (hats) Visor. petasos (hats) Hat of ancient Greece, with a wide flat brim and conical crown. Phrygian cap (hats) Conical cap with the top bent forward, named for an ancient people of Asia Minor. Worn as a symbol during the French Revolution, it is now also known as the cap of liberty. picture hat (hats) A hat with a very wide brim, worn tilted to the side of the head. pile (components) Nap. pile (components) Modern synthetic fabric with napped surface. pillbox (hats) A small brimless cap with a flat tip and cylindrical side. pith helmet (hats) Helmet of cork or pith (dried spongy tissue from the sola plant), covered with cloth. planking (felting) Rolling and heating the hoods to complete the felting process. Source: Pufpaff plated hats (hats) 19th century term for wool hats with applied naps of finer furs. Source: Pufpaff plush (components) Cloth of silk or cotton, with a longer and softer nap than velvet. plush hats (hats) Men's hat of plush, an imitation of napped beaver hats. Source: CMC poke bonnet (hats) 19th century women's bonnet with a very deep brim and small crown. pom-pom (components) Pompon. pompon (components) Ornamental tuft of yarn, ribbon, feathers or similar. poor-boy cap (hats) Large, soft, 6 or 8-panel fabric cap with visor and peak snap. Sometimes with ear flaps. Also called a newsboy. porkpie (hats) Hat style made popular during the 19th century, it has a round, flat-topped crown and a small brim turned up all around. pouncing (felting) Rubbing down the outside of felt hats with pumice stone, sand paper or emery paper to produce a very smooth surface. Source: Pufpaff profile brim (hats) A brim turned up on one side only: front, back or side. See also relevé. Puritan (hats) Black felt hat with high conical crown and narrow straight brim, worn by the Puritans during the 17th century. It was usually trimmed with a buckle at the front. Source: Classic Millinery Techniques quarter-wool (components) 19th century term for rabbit fur, including worst part of the sides, bellies, clippings and fur from out-of-season animals. Source: Pufpaff raffia (components) A natural straw from Madagascar, available in cones, capelines, braids and hanks. Source: Hats UK raising card (felting) Small wired instrument to raise nap on felt. Source: Pufpaff relevé (hats) Word of French origin, referring to brim: softly turned-up at the front or on one side of the hat. See also profile brim. retting (techniques) Process involving the use of moisture and bacterial action to transform plant stalks into straw. The elimination of hard cellulose fibers and gummy substances frees the supple bast fibers. roller (hats) A brim turned up symmetrically all around a hat. Source: Classic Millinery Techniques Royal Ascot (history) The world famous English horse race meeting at Ascot, dating from the early 18th century, is particularly renowned for Ladies' Day, a unique occasion and setting to flaunt the most spectacular hats. rush (components) Capeline made of a stiff thick straw, usually left its natural green color. Source: Hats UK sailor (hats) Boater. shako (hats) Cylindrical, flat-topped cap with small brim. Military head-cover. Source: CMC shako or shake-off (hats) Fur felt hats with applied naps of fur. Name derives from the manufacturing technique. Source: Pufpaff Sherlock Holmes (hats) Deer stalker. sinamay (components) Sisal. sisal (components) Fiber of a banana palm (Musa textilis) used to make cones, capelines and woven fabric. Source: Hats UK sisal (components) Cone or capeline of sisal fiber made with a one over one weave. Source: Hats UK skimmer (hats) Boater. skull-cap (hats) Small, close-fitting cap of fabric, knit or crochet. When of fabric, usually made with six gores. slouch hat (hats) A soft hat with a high crown and drooping flexible brim. Also called a Garbo hat, from the name of the actress who worn this style in many films. Source: Classic Millinery Techniques smoking cap (hats) Men's pillbox shape cap, worn during the 19th century to prevent the hair from smelling of tobacco. Source: The Hat Book snap brim (hats) A brim which can be bent into various positions, such as a fedora. snood (hats) Scottish term for a fillet worn by young women to confine hair. snood (hats) Loose net for woman's back hair, usually made of netting, sometimes with ribbons, bows and other sorts of trimming. sombrero (hats) Mexican hat with high, conical crown and very wide brim. Usually of straw or felt. spagnola (hats) Italian term for a crown detail: indented crease around the top. spartre (components) Willow. St. Catherine of Alexandria (history) Patron saint of milliners in France, + c. 307 A.D., celebrated November 25. Source: Saints St. Clement I (history) 3rd Bishop of Rome, + c. 100 A.D. Patron saint of hatters in England, celebrated November 23. By tradition, the discoverer of felt. Source: Saints stiffening (techniques) Solution of glue, gum arabic, mucilage, or shellac, etc. applied to stiffen felt or straw. stocking cap (hats) Knitted cap, usually conical, often finished with a pompon. stovepipe hat (hats) A tall 19th century top hat, made popular by U.S. President Abraham Lincoln. stuff hat (hats) 19th century term for felt hats made principally of fur. Source: Pufpaff suede felt (components) Fur felt hood or capeline with short nap: surface texture resembles suede. tammy (hats) Tam-o'-shanter. tam-o'-shanter (hats) Beret with close-fitting headband, usually trimmed with a pompon. tarboosh (hats) Conical, flat-topped cap of felt or cloth, with a tassel attached at top center. Head-cover in Islamic cultures, especially for men. ten-gallon hat (hats) Cowboy hat. Tiffany (hats) Mushroom hat. tip (hats) The top part of the crown. tip (hats) 19th century term for cordies with applied cod-wool or camel hair nap on the crown. Source: Pufpaff top hat (hats) Tall, cylindrical, flat-topped hat with modeled brim. Source: CMC toque (hats) French term for a chef's hat. toque (hats) Small hat for women with no brim, or small turned-up brim. toupé (components) Fur felt hood or capeline with long nap. tricorne (hats) Men's hat of the 18th century: wide brims were folded up to form three points. Source: CMC tuque (hats) Canadian term for stocking cap. turban (hats) Women's head-dress resembling men's turbans. turban (hats) Typical head-dress for Muslim and Sikh men, constructed by winding a long scarf around the head. vanities (hats) 15th century British term for hats. Source: Pufpaff veil (hats) Cloth, often transparent, or netting used to cover the head and/or the face, for women's head-dress. velour felt (components) Fur felt hood or capeline with uniform nap and velvet-like surface texture. visca (components) Cone or capeline of rayon fiber, usually made with a one over one weave. Source: Hats UK visor (hats) A partial brim, usually extending out at the front of a hat or cap. Also known as a peak. wheat, single or double (components) Capeline made of a stiff coarse straw, usually left its natural golden brown color. Single wheat is made of a finer quality than double wheat Source: Hats UK widow's peak (hats) A close-fitting cap with a point extending down at the center of the forehead. Originally worn as a mourning bonnet by Caterina de Medici. Source: Classic Millinery Techniques willow (components) A woven and sized material made of esparto grass and cotton, used for making the base of fashion hats. Also known as esparterie and spartre. Source: Classic Millinery Techniques wimple (hats) Head covering worn by nuns, usually of linen or silk, arranged in folds. Formerly worn by other women as well. xian (components) Capeline made of an oriental straw. Source: Hats UK yarmulke (hats) Skull-cap worn by Jewish men. Also known as kippah. Source: CMC zucchetto (hats) Skull-cap worn by Roman Catholic clergy: black for priests, purple for bishops, red for cardinals, white for the pope. |
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